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 Baitcasters: bearings & keeping good free spool
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RonR
Ausbass Member

891 Posts

Posted - 07/05/2012 :  12:25:59  Show Profile Send RonR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Mates and I typically don't toss lures < 6g on our baitcasters so, in our application with reels like Chronarchs and similar Daiwas, we get away without the specialist bearings and oils.

On the subject of cleaning bearings, after these shielded bearings have been spun with a suitable solvent (to remove any unsuitable factory lubricant) and then dried prior to oiling, there should be no need for further cleaning - unless the objective is to try to wash out metallic particles caused by wear.

Ron

Edited by - RonR on 07/05/2012 12:26:29
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Goodoo
Ausbass Member

660 Posts

Posted - 14/05/2012 :  12:05:41  Show Profile Send Goodoo a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I'm still having problems...

Last time, I swam these hybrid bearings (ceramic balls, stainless steel races) in white spirit for several hours and lubed with Shimano bantam oil.

Casting performance/distance was still laughable. Truly pathetic.

So tonight they will swim in brake cleaner fluid, get thorougly dry, then get lubed with Oust oil.

After that, if they're still not performing, I'm giving them the sack and will source some bog-standard ABEC 5 stainless stell bearings and lube them with bog standard Shimano Bantam oil.

One does ask one's self sometimes "Why does it have to be so hard?!"

cheers


Simon

Edited by - Goodoo on 14/05/2012 12:06:53
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RonR
Ausbass Member

891 Posts

Posted - 14/05/2012 :  14:51:19  Show Profile Send RonR a Private Message  Reply with Quote
G'day Simon,

It gets stranger & stranger and must have a simple explanation. Is there more than one reeel involved?

You should be able to get some idea of spool inertia/ friction by spinning it without line in free spool with the brake blocks disengaged or removed. If the re-oiled bearings spin freely on a test spindle (e.g. a piece of wood pushed into the innner race), they should do the same in the reel.

Could be something else of a mechanical nature, e.g. line wound too loose biting into the spooled line, interference from brake blocks, oil of grease on the brake drum, bent spool shaft or a distorted housing.

Ron
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Goodoo
Ausbass Member

660 Posts

Posted - 14/05/2012 :  17:37:48  Show Profile Send Goodoo a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Thanks for your suggestions Ron. However, I've checked these reels pretty thoroughly, so I'm in no doubt it is these damn bearings.

Apparently bantam oil is too heavy for them, so cleaning them in brake cleaner fluid and lubeing them with Oust oil *should* get them working spinning super-freely.
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Goodoo
Ausbass Member

660 Posts

Posted - 24/03/2015 :  16:35:45  Show Profile Send Goodoo a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Blast from the past

I went back to original Shimano bearings and Shimano Bantam oil and all is fine

I dabble with a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and it seems to work dramatically well breaking old oil and crud and getting it out. Currently I use brake cleaner (in a glass jar with a lid; the U.S. cleaner is filled with water) but acetone is apparently the go.

I still give the bearings a spin in the solvent (whatever it might be) with a drill after their ultrasonic zap.

Also having dark thoughts of seriously giving a threadline outfit a go for cod instead of a baitcaster outfit ... though there's nothing like fighting a cod on a smooth baitcaster.

Edited by - Goodoo on 24/03/2015 16:37:06
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benny88
Ausbass Member

628 Posts

Posted - 26/03/2015 :  17:14:42  Show Profile Send benny88 a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Never read this thread before. Its interesting. Ive had a similar problem before when I was getting a reduced casting distance throughout the day. It was because the brake drum was getting a small amount of water on it and it would bog down the little brake shoes on the spool. The fix was simply popping the side plate off and blowing the water off or running ya sleeve around it. The prevention was to stop thumbing the spool and let the centrifugal brake do its magic as the water was getting in there by spinning off the line on the spool and deflecting off my thumb and spraying into the side of the spool. Its a habit hard to break when you are used to a mag brake which is far less automatic.
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GRAVY
Ausbass Member

137 Posts

Posted - 24/06/2015 :  17:10:06  Show Profile Send GRAVY a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Gents

First rule of thumb for any bearing is that it should never be spun in a medium that does not have lubricating properties. Bearings run dry or in a solvent are permanently damaged, worst case scenario is to use kerosene as a cleaning agent it is an abrasive.

Ok now comes a repeat of the best advice I have received in years. Buy yourself some "Inox MX5" and put an old bearing in the container and shake vigorously. Apply sparingly to your reel bearings, the result will astound you. Advisable to repeat the oiling process after every outing.
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denman
Ausbass Member

180 Posts

Posted - 12/11/2016 :  22:34:43  Show Profile  Send denman an AOL message Send denman a Private Message  Reply with Quote
I may be a simple soul but I just lube the casting bearing after a couple of outings with the original Shimano oil. I also use it on my Alphas and Liberto Pixie and have yet to see any problems. I've never cleaned a bearing yet, I think the right oil will usually flush out anything that shouldn't be there. Lube that is used in casting comps is not ideal for normal fishing use to my thinking. There are two entirely different disciplines here. Best to keep things as simple as possible. I do have some Quantum Hot Sauce as well and that's pretty good stuff.
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